Tips & Hints

 You might think of your heating and cooling system as just a “BOX” that can be turned “ON” and “OFF” in order to control your home temperature, but your system is a lot more than that. It has an impact on the air that you breathe, the moisture and mold growth, the amount of energy that you use, the un necessary expenses that you carry, and most importantly, on your and your family’s health.
Just like your car, your home comfort system needs routine maintenance to keep it running at its best. Without regular maintenance, heating and cooling systems waste energy and are ore likely to break down. With the proper attention however, they can they can keep you comfortable year round. A system which is not running in top shape, is one that is costing you money every month.
Here is a list of tips for those who want to know what their system needs for best possible performance

 Some tips on using A/C

During very high ambient temperature (above 30 C), air conditioning unit are
Not working with design temperature, because most of them are sized on an
ambient of 26 C.
We advise you not to set A/C units to work below 17 C, because it could lead to problems. If you do so to speed up cooling, it could lead the evaporator coil to freeze-up during cooler ambient temperature.
If the A/C unit is too large, there will be a problem, because it may not cool uniformly or provide proper dehumidification.
Set the fan on low speed in humid weather to remove moisture from the air, which will make it feel cooler.
Clear the furniture away from air conditioning vents.
Weather-strip door and windows.
Keep windows closed and draperies, blinds, and shades drown.
Check the air filter once a month and clean or replace them when necessary, because dusty filters reduce air flow and unit will consume excess energy.
Clear grass, shrubs, leaves and other obstruction from the area around the outside of condensing unit. It must have unobstructed air flow all around to dissipate the heat that is being removed from inside.

The axle should be lubricated, and blades cleaned
The fan belt should be adjusted so it deflects no more than an inch when pressed

While thermostats rarely fail, they can degrade over time. Faulty thermostats can send faulty signals to the system thinking the room is warmer or colder than it really is.

Houses with forced-air furnaces have an air filter to keep it and its duct work clean. This filter sits in between the main return duct and the furnace cabinet at the blower side. This filter should be kept clean all year round on heating and cooling seasons.
Media filters are made of deeply pleated, paper-like material, and media particles.
Media filter can cover up to 75 square feet when stretched out. This increased area of filtration will increase the life of the filter.
Choose a filter that matches your blower capacity.
For more information on different types of air filters refer to IAQ pages.


Helpful hints

Before calling for service, check the following:
Check the power supply
Check the selections on thermostat (“HEAT” for heating,” COOL” for cooling)
Check the setting on thermostat. On “HEAT” the setting should be higher than the room
temperature to have the heating system running and on “COOL” the thermostat setting should
be lower than the room temperature.
Check that blower compartment door is properly aligned, in place, and secure
Check for a possible blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker


 HCFC Phase out

Under the Montreal Protocol, developed nations are obligated to achieve a certain percentage of progress toward the total phase out of HCFCs by certain dates.
These nations use the cap as a baseline to measure their progress toward achieving the percentage goals.

HCFC Phase out Schedule
January 2010: A ban on the manufacture of new equipment using R-22
January 2020: End of production of HCFCs except R-123
January 2020: A ban on the manufacture of new equipment using R-123
January 2030: End of production and importation of R-123

tips and hits image

HCFC Consumption Phase out
2004: 35% reduction vs. cap
2010: 65% reduction vs. cap
2015: 90% reduction vs. cap
2020: 99.6% phase out (except R-123)
2030: 100% complete phase out

Some Terms and Definitions:

BTU (British Thermal Unit)
A BTU is the quantity of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water to
one degree Fahrenheit.
Air conditioner cooling capacity is often measured in either BTUH (Btu per hour) or tons.
(1 ton=12,000 Btu/h)

Cooling Capacity
Cooling Capacity is the cooling power of a central air conditioner. It is most commonly
measured as the BTUs per hour of heat that air conditioner can remove from the air.
The only accurate way to determine the cooling capacity that you will need in a home, is to
have a heating and cooling contractor perform a load calculation. This calculation will take
into account many factors about the building that you live in including its size, number and
direction of windows, amount of shades, amount and type of insulation, etc.

An air conditioner whose capacity is too small will not adequately cool your residence or
building and if the capacity of the A/C is too large, it will cycle “ ON” and “ OFF” too often
(short cycling), decreasing efficiency and increasing your electric bill. In addition, it will not
maintain proper humidity levels, resulting in a less comfortable environment.

It is an abbreviation for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. It is commonly used for efficiency
Of air conditioners.
An air conditioner must have a SEER of at least 13 to be sold in North America.
SEERs use data based on a full cooling season, where as an EER (Energy Efficiency Ratio) uses only one specific set of conditions (operation @ 95 degree Fahrenheit).

A SEER rating includes factors for:
Steady-state operation
Cyclic operation
Changes in input and/or output that occur during normal operation

Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency
The overall annual efficiency of the appliance as recorded from sum of the firing cycles (i.e., Steady state efficiency) minus the OFF cycle losses.

AFUE ratings are used to compare gas furnaces on how much fuel gas is used in a year to generate a specific amount of heat.

Nearly 140 different factors must be calculated and computed in complex mathematical formulas to arrive at on AFUE rating.

AFUE is an average efficiency based on all factors that affect furnace performance throughout an entire year.

Single stage or Two stage
A single stage heating/cooling will deliver/remake the same amount of heat and airflow no matter what the temperature is outside.
A two stage furnace with a two stage thermostat will start heating in first stage (low burner, low airflow) and only goes to the second stage if the indoor temperature drops below the thermostat setting. This makes the furnace run longer, providing great air circulation, temperature distribution and air filtration. The two stage furnace also provides a more consistent indoor environment.
Low Energy bills only happen when:
The condenser (Outdoor Unit), the Evaporator coil (Indoor Unit), the Furnace, and Line set are matched, properly sized, installed correctly, and maintained regularly.

Why Scroll Compressor?
When compare the Scroll Compressor to the Piston one, the scroll offers several significant advantages:
1- Scroll Compressor is simple. It has fewer parts to compress the gas- two parts compare to
Fifteen parts in a piston compressor.
2- Scroll Compressor is quieter. Because there is a few moving parts in scroll, this compressor
is quiet and because the compression is continuous, there is no pulsation and valve noise.
3- Scroll Compressor is efficient. Because of the type of operation, scroll compressor has less
heat transfer between suction and discharge gas. This, plus more detailed factors make
scroll 10-15% more efficient than piston compressor.